Gardening with Margaret Matthews
Norfolk Island — paradise regained
by Margaret Matthews
This tiny jewel of an island, set in the bast blue expanse of the Pacific Ocean, owes much of its early survival and its current prosperity to its plants, both native and exotic, from the stately Norfolk Island Pine to the grasses which cover the land to the edges of the steep cliff tops.
To understand why plants were so important, it is necessary to know a little of the island’s story. It was discovered by Captain Cook on 10 October 1774 and was quickly colonised by Britain and the first of three penal settlements, which are still regarded as shocking examples of man’s inhumanity to man, was established. The last convict left in 1856.
The Pitcairn Islanders who in 1858 arrived on Norfolk Island were survivors of the infamous Mutiny on the Bounty, which took place in 1856. The story of the Pitcairners has been told many times. Some of those who came from Pitcairn returned there in 1858 and 1863.
The present population of 1300 is composed of descendants of the Pitcairners, the British, and Polynesians who inhabited these islands 700 years ago.
When Cook first saw the island, it must have indeed seemed like Paradise. There were 47 species of indigenous plants, of which the majestic pine trees were, and still are, the most conspicuous: the Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla).
On his discovery of the island, Captain Cook reported: "The chief product of the island is the Spruce Pine which grows here in abundance, varying in size from two to three feet in diameter. It is a different sort of tree to those growing on New Caledonia, and also those in New Zealand, and for masts, yards, etc superior to both. We cut down one of the smallest trees we could find, and cut a length of the upper end to make a top-mast or yard. My carpenter tells me that the wood is of the exact nature of the Quebec Pines."
Cook named the island ‘Norfolk Island’ after the ninth Duchess of Norfolk, of "the noble family of Howard" so the tree which had so impressed Cook became the ‘Norfolk Island Pine’.
Fortunately for the future of the island, Cook’s assessment was not correct, and the timber was unsuitable for ship-building, as the island would then have been denuded of these majestic trees which contribute so much to the scenic beauty and economy of Norfolk Island.
We visited several homes where the timber had been used both in their construction and in creating beautiful furniture. Because the pine trees are regarded as belonging to the islanders, they pay only milling costs for the timber. We saw magnificent dining tables which would sell in Australia for many thousands of dollars.
It is almost impossible to be anywhere on the island without seeing a pine tree. They grow in small forest areas, in groups and in avenues. Sometimes a single specimen stands alone or as sentinel on a cliff top, outlined against the sky. When a resident reaches 100 years, an equivalent number of pine trees are planted to mark the occasion. (To date, no male has reached this milestone.)
Although the pines escaped being felled to build British ships, the numbers of the Cabbage Palm (Rhopalostylis baueri) were severely depleted by Cook and his men, who found the cabbage-like hearts were much to their liking and helped extend the ship’s rations.
Another palm that has contributed greatly to the island’s economy is the Kentia Palm (Kentia australis), a very popular plant in many parts of the world. It originated, not on Norfolk, but on Lord Howe Island. It was once known as the ‘Parlour Palm’, and one can visualise it having pride of place in a Victorian drawing-room. It can be grown in a tub and this is how it is usually cultivated. However, the full-grown trees have long green fronds, racemes of cream flowers and a trunk striped in different colours. The seeds and young plants are a major source of revenue for the islanders.
There are two very small islands, Nepean and Phillip, adjacent to Norfolk. Phillip Island was denuded by the pigs, rabbits and goats which were released there many years ago. A planting programme has begun to restore the original vegetation. Fortunately, the animals never made it to Norfolk.
During their short history, Norfolk Islanders have tried and tested many plants in their efforts to improve the economy and to make their people less reliant on imports. One would think that the island is blessed in some areas with top soil that is six feet deep, it should be a veritable Garden of Eden, but unfortunately, like anywhere else, they have their problems. Here are a few examples:
It is not cold enough in winter to grow apples, nor warm enough in summer to ripen mangoes. The salt-laden winds destroy some crops, and there are the usual pests and diseases that come and go. But the islanders are confident, energetic people, and they have endeavoured to make every post a winner without exploiting their special environment. Some of the crops that have been grown at various times through the years include: arrowroot, bananas, beans, citrus fruit, flax, passionfruit, potatoes, sweet potato, taro and wheat.
I have recently returned from a visit to Norfolk where we visited several private gardens, including Norm Trickey’s which had just won several awards in the island’s annual competition. This well-kept garden of annuals, trees and shrubs also has fruit trees, a maze and a hedge of the Australian Native Rosemary (Westringa rosmariafolia). This plant would no doubt have been imported before exotic plants were prohibited, but it serves a useful purpose, as the many cows which have right-of-way on the roads, do not find it palatable.
Government House is one of several fine Georgian buildings in Quality Row. Its lawns are of fine English turf, flanked by herbaceous borders filled with spring flowers.
The Botanic Gardens give a glimpse of what may have been before so much of the island was cleared. They are undulating, lush and slightly unkempt. There are many beautiful native flowers. Pulau, with its yellow flowers is the native Hibiscus, which is distributed throughout the South Pacific.
There are many more plants on Norfolk Island than I can describe here, and there is much more than plants to see and experience. There is the scenic beauty, the history, geography and culture of this unique island which measures only eight by five kilometres. And best of all, there are the people. They are proud of their island and delight in showing it to visitors. I had a great time.
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