Gardening with Margaret Matthews
Mid year tasks in the garden
by Margaret Matthews
There are always jobs to be done in the garden, but in winter there is less urgency to get things done, and still less enthusiasm to leave the warm house for the bleak and windswept outdoors. So, winter can be a time for taking stock, not only of the garden itself, but of the way in which we care for it.
Winter is the time when the ‘bare bones’ of the garden are exposed. When deciduous trees display their graceful skeletons, when perennials often vanish underground until the fitful spring sunshine begins to warm the earth. Bulbs are still asleep, and native shrubs and trees, although still wearing their evergreen mantle, may require some close attention.
Deciduous trees
When dormant, deciduous trees may be shaped or lightly pruned. Young trees may be transplanted to a more favourable position (preferably in late winter) by lifting them with a large ball of soil and transferring them to a new, already prepared site. Water in well with a soluble seaweed preparation or similar plant starter (these are not fertilizers). Fruit trees should be sprayed to control leaf-curl and codlin-moth. Your local nursery will advise on when and what to use.
Native trees and shrubs
Many natives flower in late winter or early spring, thus providing welcome colour. So if plants are in bud or flower it is obviously the wrong time to prune them. After they have finished flowering they should be lightly pruned and shaped if necessary, just as exotics are. There is a mistaken idea that natives do not need any attention. This is why we see so many neglected native plants in suburban gardens.
If bottlebrush (Callistemins) have seed-pods removed after flowering from the very first year, they will reward the gardener with a greatly increased flowering and a well-shaped plant. Many natives become leggy if they are not cut back regularly. In the wild, they are pruned by birds and animals, cut back by frosts, and subjected to storms and fire. Often nature’s controls are far more severe than we can inflict with our careful pruning.
Native plants do not take readily to transplanting. If a plant outgrows its situation it is better to replace it than waste time trying to relocate it. Native plants require some feeding, and there are now special slow release pellets which can be used twice a year. Blood and bone can also be used, but in all cases use fertilisers sparingly.
Evergreen shrubs
Camellias, rhododendrons and azaleas flower from late winter until well into spring. The exception is the Sasanqua camellia which provides welcome flowers in autumn. These shrubs do not need a great deal of pruning and shaping. Azaleas are subject to fungal diseases and leaf bugs. These shrubs all need a slightly acid soil and an easterly or southerly aspect.
Lawns
If your lawn needs attention it is high time that the work was under way. It really should have been done by now, so don’t delay. If birds appear to be eating the lawn, they are probably feeding on worms which can be a problem at this time of year. Consult your nursery about this, as well as getting advice on top-dressing and feeding for your lawn. It may also need aerating, and you can hire a machine for this. Types of lawn vary a great deal in different areas, so it is difficult to give specific advice on varieties of seed here, but your local nursery will stock the right seed.
Bulbs
Spring-flowering bulbs have been snug in their blanket of earth for many weeks now, and some will soon put forth their first green shoots. Remember that the flower in the heart of the bulb has been developing since it took in nourishment through its leaves until they died down at the end of summer. If the leaves are cut back before they turn yellow, the next season’s flower will not have developed. As the shoots appear watch for grubs and take action! If you have not grown liliums before, they are well worthwhile. They will flower from early to late summer, and are ideal in containers. There are many mail-order catalogues advertised in gardening magazines at this time of year. It is time now to order liliums and many perennials.
Roses
The next two months are the time to prune most roses. Climbers and ramblers which flower in spring should of course be pruned after flowering, as should any plant. If you are not confident about pruning your roses, there are demonstrations at many nurseries over the next few weeks. New rose plants can still be purchased from specialist rose nurseries or your own local nursery. If you plant new roses or transplant existing ones, do not fertilise until the end of August.
Rubbish
Clean up the compost heap and make sure that any leaves that have fallen since your last assault are included. Make sure that gutters and drains are cleared. Collect any fallen branches and prunings are gathered up and tied into bundles. Any broken pots or piles of leaves which may harbour slaters or other insects should be removed.
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